Machine for hemming garments.



No. 710,504, Patented out. 7, |902;

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No. 710,504. Patented Oct. 7, 1902'.

L. NEWMAN.

MACHINE F08 HEMMING GARMENTS. (Application filed Mar. 29, 1901.)

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No. 7l0,504. v Patented 't.v 7, i902.

L. NEWMAN.

MACHINE FOR HEMMING GABMENTS.

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N0. 710,504. Patented Oct. 7, [902.

L. NEWMAN. MACHINE FUR HEMMING GABM'ENTS.

(Application led Mar. 29, 1901.)

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No. 750,504. Patented Uct. 7, |902".

L. NEWMAN.

MACHINE FOR HEMMING GABMENTS.

(Applimion med mr. 29,1901.)

Winesses: Inventor:

No. 7I0,504. Patented Oct. 7, |902..

L. NEWMAN.

HACHINE FOB HEMMING GABMENTS.

(Application led. Har. 29, 1901.) (no Model.) s sheets-sheet 6.

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No. 710,504. Patented oct. 7, |902.

L. NEWMAN. MACHINE FOR HEMMING GARMENTS.

(Application led Har. 29, 1901.)

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Unteren STATES PATENT OFFICE.

LEOPOLD NEIVMAN, OF BRADDOOII, PENNSYLVANIA.

MACHINE FOR HEMNHNG GARMENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 710,504, dated October7, 1902.

'lpplication filed March 29,1901. Serial No. 53,403. (No model To LZ/fwhom, if) may concern.-

Be it known that I, LEOPOLD NEWMAN, a resident of Braddock, in thecounty of Allegheny and State of Pennsylvania, have invented a new anduseful Improvement in Garment-Hemming Machines; and I dohereby declarethe following' to oe a full, clear, and exact description thereof.

My invention relates to a machine for sealing' or finishing the hems onthe bottoms of trousers-legs, skirts, and other garments and articles.

In a certain class of trousers it is the common practice to secure thehem at the bottom of the legs by means of an adhesive substance insteadof Sewing. Prior to my inventions this has been done by hand, and themode of procedure consisted in inserting in the hem a strip ofgum-tissue, then moisteniug the same, and pressing by means of a hotiron. The heat of the iron melted the gum-tissue sufficiently tosecurely cement the turned-up portion to the body of the trousers-leg.In ordcr to keep the gum-tissue in place, it was found necessary tobaste down the hem after the gum-tissue was inserted therein, whichbastinp,` was removed after the cementins,r had been accomplished. Theoperation was a slow and laborious one and required a considerableamount of care in order to properly finish the work.

My invention provides a machine for performing the above mentionedoperations whereby the same can be carried out expeditiously and cheaplyand without the necessity of skilled labor, and said machine is animprovement upon a machine for a similar purpose invented by me anddescribed and claimed in my application filed June 17, i899, Serial No.720,910. The machine described in the said applicai ion comprises arotary stepby-step support for the bottom of the trousersleg, togetherwith mechanism for automatically inserting the gum-tissue in the fold orhem at the bottom of said leg, means for dampening and inoistening thesame, and a heated presser-roll for pressing the said hem or fold inorder to melt the gum-tissue and cement the turned-up portion to thebody of the trousers-leg. Inasmuch as trousers-bottoms are of differentwidths, it follows that varying amounts of gum-tissue must be placed inthe hems thereof, and in the machine described in said application thetissue is fed to the fold or hem in short pieces and the number of suchpieces fed thereto is controlled automatically by a stretcher which isinserted in the trousers-bottom and the position of which permits agreater or less number of such pieces of gum-tissue being fed to thehem, according to the size of the trousers-bottom. This mechanism,however, controls only the number of pieces of gum-tissue fed to thehem, and inasmuch as one piece of such tissue is fed into the hem foreach inch or unit of the width of the trousers-bottom it follows that ifthe width of the latter includes a fraction of an inch or unit'therewill be left a space equal to the said fraction which will not besealed. In order to overcome this difficulty, the said stretcherautomatically controls the means for imparting,r a step-bystep movementto the support for the trousersbottom, so that said support will begiven a forward movement a fractional portion in excess of an inch oraunit, thereby dividing this fractional inch or unit into as many partsas there are inches or units in the circumference of thetrousers-bottom, and thus providincr asliuht space between each piece ofgumtissue, which space, however, is entirely covered when the gum-tissuemelts.

The operation and function to be performed by the machine of thisapplication are the same in general as those above described inconnection with the machine of my prior application; but the machine ofthe present application is an improvement upon the former machine,whereby the mechanism of the same is greatly simplified and the machinemade more easy to operate and also rendered more efficient. Theimprovement comprises the details in construction, as will hereinaftermore fully appear.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure lis a front end elevation of myimproved machine. Fig. 2 is a front side elevation of the same. Fig. 3is a rear end elevation of the upper portion thereof. Fig. 4 is a rearside elevation, partly in section, of the upper portion thereof. Fig. 5is a rear end View, partly in section, of the upper portion of themachine. Fig. 6 is an enlarged detail showing another position ofcertain parts shown in Fig. 5. Fig. 7 is an enlarged top plan view ofthe movable fulcrum of the lever for operating the supporting-spindle.Fig. S is a front view, enlarged, of the moistening and pressingdevices. Fig. 9 is a side view of the same. Fig. 10 is a plan view ofthe frame carrying the gum-tissue-feeding mechanism, the cover beingremoved. Fig. 11 is a section of t-he same ou the line 11 11, Fig. 10.Fig. 12 is a section on the line 12 12, Fig. 10. Figs. 13 and 14 aresections on the line 13 13, Fig. 10, showing different positions of thetongs and accessory parts. Fig. 15 is a perspective view of the tongsand certain parts acting in conjunction therewith; and Fig. 16 is acrosssection of the tongs, showing the gum-tissue being cut thereby.

The machine is provided with the table or base 1, upon which is mountedthe plate 2, to which is secured or integrally formed therewith thevertical standard 3, said standard being a thin broad plate, as shown,and to the rear side of which is secured the web 4. The plate 2,standard 3, and web 4 may conveniently be cast in one piece; but theymay be formed in any other suitable way. To the plate 2, to the rear ofthe standard 3, are secured the standards 5a, two in number, and inthese standards and on the standard 3 and table 1 all of the operativeparts of the machine are mounted. The main drive-shaft 5 of the machineis mounted in the upper ends of the standards 5n 5a, and in the standard3 in suitable journal-boxes placed therein is mounted the spindle 6,which serves as a support for the trousers-bottom and which is given anintermittent rotary step-by-step movement by the mechanism hereinafterdescribed. The standard 3 above the bearing for the spindle 6 isprovided with the upwardly-projecting portions 7, one on either side,between which projections slides the frame or housing 8, said framebeing provided with suitable grooves, which receive the guides orprojections 7. In the lower end of this frame or housing in suitablejournal-bearings formed therein is mounted the hollow presser-roll 9,which is heated by means of a gas-jet (not shown) and which is providedwith a suitable spur-gear, (not shown,) which meshes with a suitablespur-gear (not shown) on the spindle 6 precisely as in my formerapplication, the said gears being located in a hollow formed in thestandard 3 and frame 8 and said gears being so proportioned that thesaid hollow presserroll 9 is driven at a greater circumferential speedthan the spindle 6. These gears and their positions are clearly shownand described in my former application, and as they are not claimedherein it is not deemed necessary to illustrate the same. Mounted on theframe or housing 8 is the water tank or reservoir 12, which supplies thewater for the moistening device, hereinafter described, and which,together with the frame or housing 8, serves as a weight for thepresser-roll 9, although said roll may be held in contact with thespindle 6 byl means of springs, if desired. The said tank or reservoir12 is provided at its upper end with the ears 13, in which is mountedthe shaft 14, provided with the eccentrics 15, which bear on the upperends of the guides 7. Also secured to the shaft 14 is the arm 16, bymeans of which said shaft may be rotated and through the eccentricsraise the tank 12, housing 8, and presser-roll 9 whenever it is desiredto take off a finished trousers-leg and put another in place. The crankor arm 16 is connected, by means of a link or rod 17, to the rear end ofa lever 18, which is pivoted at 19' to the legs of the table 1 and whichis provided at its forward end with a suitable foot-rest 20, by means ofwhich said lever is operated.

The spindle 6 is provided on its rear end with a suitable hub 2l, inwhich is formed 'a circumferential groove for receiving the spring wireor band 22, by means of which intermittent rotary movement may beimparted to said spindle, as will now be described. The rear end of thespindle 6 is provided with the central projecting stud or bolt 23, uponwhich is mounted the oscillating lever 24, the outer end of which isprovided with the plate 25, which is at right angles to the axis of saidlever, to which plate is rigidly secured, as at 26, one end of thespring wire or band 22. The opposite end of this band or wire lies justunderneath a projecting portion 27 of a dog 28, which is pivoted, as at29, to said plate 25 and which on its outer end is provided with aroller 30. The lever 24 is provided between its pivotal point and itsouter end with the projecting ears of flanges 31, in which is rotatablymounted the block or stud 32, said block or stud being provided with anopening for receiving the inner end of a lever 33, which lever is fulcrumed at 34 and provided at its outer end with the segment 35, which isprovided with a segmental slot 36, which takes over the main drive-shaft5. This segment is provided with the rollers 37 and 3S, which lie in thepaths, respectively, of the cams 39 and 40, secured to the maindrive-shaft, and said cams com ing in contact in alternation with therollers 37 38 serve to alternately lift and depress the said segment 35,and thereby oscillate the le ver 33 about its fulcrum-point 34, therebygiving a similar oscillating movement to the lever 24.

The fulcrum-point 34 of the lever 33is mounted on the boX 4l, which issuitably secured to or integrally formed on the upper end ofthe arm 42.The fulcrum of said lever 33 is formed by two pointed screws 43, whichtake into depressions in the sides of a sleeve 44, in which sleeveslides the said lever 33, so that this sleeve may be movedlongitudinally of the said lever, but will stillA be fulcrumedoroscillatedonthescrews43. Slidingthrough the box 4l is the plunger 45,the same being provided with a slot through which passes thefulcrum-screw 43 and being provided on its IOO IIO

Outer end with an antifriction-roller 46, which is adapted to bearagainst the cam 47 on the main shaft 5. At its inner end said plunger isprovided with the vertical plate 4S, which bears against theantifriction-roller 30 on the dog 28. The operation of this part of themechanismis as follows: By the rotation of the shaft 5 the cams 39 and40 alternately strike the antifriction-rollers 37 and 3S, therebyimparting an oscillatory movement to the lever 33 and asimilar movementto the lever 24, and as the spring wire or lband 22 is secured to thelatter it is given an oscillatory rotary movement in the groove formedin the hub 2l ofthe spindle. Thisbandorwirenormallyengages the groove ofsaid hub so loosely that the friction is not sufficient to rotate saidspindle; but at the proper time in the movement of the lever 24-namely,when it is just beginning its downstroke-the cam 47 moves the plunger 45inward, thereby causing the plate 4S to bear against theantifriction-roller 30 and rock the dog 23 to cause the projection 27 tobear down on the free end of the wire or band 22, thereby tighteningsaid band in the groove on the spindle 6 and causing it to grip thelatter and carry the same around with it to the limit of the movement ofthe oscillatory lever 24. At the end of this movement the cam 47 haspassed the antifriction-roller 4G on the plunger 45, thereby permittingthe plate 4S to move backward and permitting the dog 2S to release thespring band or wire, and when the lever 24 moves upward the band 22slides freely in the groove in the spindle 6 and does not impart abackward rotary movement to the same. By the means just described,therefore, an intermittent step-bystep rotary movement is given to thespindle 6, which intermittent rotary movement serves to feed thetrousers-bottom around step by step and press the same between thepresserroll 9 and said spindle. This mechanism is so proportioned thatthe spindle 6 is given a forward rotary movement of one inch or unit ateach double oscillation of the lever 24, and whenever thetrousers-bottom measures a multiple of inches or units in circumferencethis feeding action is su ficient. lf, however, said trousers-bottomincludes a fractional inch or unit-as, for instance, if it is fifteenand onehalf inches in circumference-then the said spindle 6 must begiven a slightly-greater rotation at each step than the inch or unit. Inorder to vary the step-by-step movement to compensate for this, thefulcrum 34 of the lever 33 is made movable. As before mentioned, thesaid lever is mounted in the sleeve 44, so that the fulcrum of saidlever may be moved, and this movement of the fnlcrum is accomplished bymoving the arm 42, which arm is slidably mounted upon the rod 50 and hasits lower end secured between collars 5l on the shaft or spindle 52,which shaft or spindie is slidably mounted in an opening in the standard3 and in the support or bearing To the forward end of the spindle orshaft 52 is secured an arm or crank 54, which is provided with a stud55, which bears against the pattern-plate 56, which is suitably securedto the front face of the standard 3. This pattern-plate is provided withan irregular or sinuous face, against which the stud bears, and servesto hold the shaft 52 in various positions longitudinally,depending uponthe particular portion of the pattern-plate against which the stud 55projects, and thereby through the arm 42 varies the position of thefulcrum 34 of the lever 33, and as this fulcrum is varied the throwl ofthe inner end of` said lever is accordingly varied to impart acorrespondingly greater or less rotary movement to the spindle 6, aswill be readily understood. The spindle or shaft 52 is provided with thebeveldisk 57, against which is adapted to bear the antifrictional roller5S on the upper end of the rod 59, which passes through the plate 2 andis secured at its lower end to the lever 18. Between the disk 57 and thestandard 3 a spiral spring 60 is placed, which tends normally to movethe shaft 52 to the rear to keep the projection 55 in Contact with thepatternplate 56. The particular portion of the pattern-plate againstwhich this projection bears is regulated automatically by the size ofthe trousers-leg, as will now be described.

Suitablysecured at its one end to the standard 3 and at its opposite endto the plate 2 is an inclined guide-barGl, upon which is adapted toslide the plate 62, the said guide-bar 6l being beveled and the plate 62having suitable lips which take over the beveled portion in order tokeep the same in contact therewith. On the plate 62 is suitably mount-eda stretcher-roller 63, which is adapted to take into the trousers-bottomand to stretch the same over the spindle 6, the plate 62 moving up anddown the guide-bar 6l, as necessary. The size of the trousers-bottomwill determine the position of the roller 63 and of this guideplate 62.'lhe said guide-plate is provided with the stud 64, which takes into theslotted end of a lever 65, suitably pivoted, as at 65, to the base 2.The lever 65 has connected thereto a spring 66, suitably secured at itslower end to the lever 1S, whereby Said lever 65 is held normally downin order to eXert a pull on the roller 63 in order to stretch thetrousers-bottom. The lever 65 is provided with the arm 67, on the rearside of which is a stud which takes in a slot in the front face of thearm or crank 54 of the shaft 52 and serves to rotate the latteraccording to the position of the stretching-rollers 63. Consequently thesize of the trousers bottom through the lever 65 having this connectionwith the arm or crank 54 determines the position of the projection 55 onthe patternplate 56, and thereby determines the position of thefulcrum-point 34 'of lever 33, and consequently the extent of theoscillatory stepby-step movement given to the spindlle 6.

It is obvious that the shaft 52 might be the pivotal point 65 of thelever 65,with the arm IOO ITO

67 on said lever moving over the pattern-plate 56, and in this mannerthe longitudinal position of the spindle 52 would be varied. I mentionthis for the reason thatin one of the machines built by me this modifiedconstruction has been followed. The arm 67 of the lever 65 is connected,by means of a link 70, to the end of an arm or crank 71 on the forwardend of a short stub-shaft 69, which is suitably mounted in an opening inthe standard 3, to the rear end of which shaft is secured the serratedcam 72 for a purpose which will hereinafter appear. Projectingdownwardly from the front of the table 1 is the bracket 73, on which ismounted the bell-crank lever 74, one arm, 75, of which is connected bythe link 76 to the rear end of the lever 18. The other arm, 77, of saidhell-crank lever is provided with two pivoted sections 78 and 79, theconstruction being such that said sections will yield only in onedirection, but when pressure is brought against them in the oppositedirection they form, in eect, a rigid eX- tension of the arm 77. Thesesections 78 79 are adapted to bear against the antifrictionroller 80 onthe-lever 65 and raise the same, after which they pass beyond saidroller and in their backward movement they yield or turn about theirhinges, so that said roller 8O will not interfere with the returnmovement of the lever 77. To the side of the lever 18 is pivoted thelatch 81, which at its rear end is provided with a linger 82, which willfall underneath the shoulder 83 on the bracket 84, to which said leveris pivoted, whereby when said lever 18 has its front end depressed itwill be held by said latch in this position. When the said lever 18 isdepressed at its forward end through the rod 17, the reservoir 12,housing 8, and presser-roller 9 are elevated and held in their elevatedposition until the latch or trigger is released. The same movementthrough the bell-crank lever 74 raises the lever 65, plate 62, andstretching-roller 63 and moves the arm 54 over the pattern-plate 56, andthereby moves the spindle 52 longitudinally and also oscillates theserrated cam 72l to what may be designated the zero positions of saidspindle 52 and serrated cam 72. The plate or carriage 62 is provided atits upper end with the hooked projection 85,V which when said plate ismoved to its full upward movement comes in Contact with the lower hookedend 86 of a spring-latch 87, which is mounted in lugs 88 on the frontface of the standard 3 and which is provided with the handle 89 and issurrounded by a suitable spiral spring 90. This spring-latch engages thehook of the plate 61 and holds the latter, together with thestretching-roller, in its elevated position until a trousers-bottom isput over the said stretching-roller and spindle 6, when by operating thehandle 89 of the spring-latch just described the said stretch--ing-roller and its plate will move down on the guide-bar 61, therebystretching the trousers-bottom over the spindle 6 and determining,according to the width of said trou-l sers-bottom, through the lever 65,arm 67, and arm 54 the longitudinal position of the spindle 52 andthrough said arm 67, link 70, and crank 71 the position of the serratedcam 72.

The gum tissue -feeding mechanism is mounted on a plate 91, said platebeing provided with a hub 92, which slides on the stud 93, projectingout from the standard 3. The stud 93 is provided with a suitable annulargroove 94, which is adapted to be engaged by the lower end ofthe latch95, which is suitably mounted inthe plate 91 and is pressed downward byaspring 96 to normally engage the notch 94 in the stud, whereby saidgumtissue-feeding mechanism and its support are held normallyinoperative position, in which position it is retained until the requireduumber of pieces or units of gum-tissue have been fed to the fold of thetrousers-bottom, and when the required number have been so fed the saidfeeding mechanism and its supporting-plate are automatically moved outof operative position by mechanism which will now be described. The saidgum-tissue-feeding mechanism, as before stated, is held in its operativeposition by the latch 95 and is borne against by the plate-spring 97,which when said mechanism is in its operative position is under tension,so that as soon as the latch 95 is released from the notch 94 saidspring will move the said mechanism outward and away from its operativeposition. The latch 95 is provided with a stud 98, on the upper surfaceof which bears the spring 94 and which is adapted to be engaged by thecurved arm 99 of a bell-crank lever suitably pivoted, as at 100, theother arm 101 of which bell-crank lever is adapted to be engaged by thepusher 102 in order to release the said latch 95 from the groove 94, andthereby permit the moving of the gum-tissue-feeding mechanism to itsinoperative position. The pusher 102 is mounted to slide in suitablebearings in the web 4 of the standard 3, and said pusher is providedwith the lower bar 103, the rear end 104 of which is adapted to contactwith one of the serrations of the cam 72, before described, the positionof which cam depends upon the width ot' the trousers-bottom. A spring105 tends to keep said pusher normally in its retracted position, withthe rod 103 against the cam 72. Above the bar 103 is the Y bar106, whichis provided on its surface with a series of teeth or serrations 107,which are adapted to be engaged by a pawl 108 in order to feed the saidpusher forward step by step. The pawl 108 is provided at its upper endwith a projection 109, which passes through the bearing 101, a spiralspring 111 having one end` secured to said bearing and the opposite endto the pawl. Thereby said pawl is held normally elevated, with its pointout of contact with the serrated bar 106. The said pawl is provided withan antifrictionroller 112, against which bears the lower end of a lever113, which is pivoted on the stud IOO IIO

or screw'23 of the spindle 6 and which is pro vided at its upper endwith an antifrictionroller 114, which lies in the path of a cam on therear face of a cam-disk 116, secured tothe main shaft 5. The serratedbar 10G passes through a sleeve on the web 4, which sleeve has formedthereon the inclined fare 117, upon which the pawl 10S normally rests,and when said pawl is depressed by the rockiugo'f the level' 113 thesaid pawl rides down said inclined face and into the seri-ations of thebar 106 and moves the same forward one step. To prevent backwardmovement of the said pusher, I provide a latch 118, pivoted as at 119,said latch being pressed by means of a spring to engage the rack-bar, aswill be readily understood, and having a forwardly-projecting arm 119",which lies in the path of the cam-surface120 on the hub 92.

The position of the cam 72, as above stated, is regulated by the widthof the trousers-bot tom, and the pusher 102 is held against this cam 72by the spring 105, and the position of said cam determines the extent towhich said pusher will project forward beyond the inclined face 117, onwhich the pawl108 reststhat is,with a small trousers-bottom the pusher102 will be held in suoli position at the beginning of the operationthat a comparatively small number of serra-tions 107 are covered by theinclined wall 117, and said pusher projects correspondingly closer tothe bell-crank lever 101 than in ease of a large trousers-bottom. As aconsequence with a small trousersbottom a comparatively few step-by-stepforward feedings of the pusher 102 will bring said pusher against thebell-crank lever 101 and through the same elevate the latch 05, therebypermitting the spring 07 to throw the gum-tissue-feeding mechanism outof its operative position. On the other hand, with a largetrousers-bottom the position ot' the cam 72 is such that the pusher 102will be held comparatively far back at the beginning of the operation,so that a correspondingly larger number of step-by-step forwardmovements must be given to said pusher before the latch J5 will bereleased. Through the cam 72, therefore, and the step-by-step movementgiven to said pusher 102 I provide automatic mechanism controlled by thesize of the trousers bottom for automatically stopping the feeding ofthegum-tissue to the fold of the trousers-bottom at the desired time.

The hub 92 of the supporting-plate 01 has pivotally secured thereto theweighted handle 125, which handle is connected by the links 126 to acollar 127 on the outer end of the stud 03. The projecting portion 12Sofsaid handle, together with the links 126, provides, substantially,toggle members, by means of which the said plate 91 can be moved inwardto its operative position. rfhe hub 92 is provided on either side of thchole which receives the stud 03 with the segmental slots 120, which areengaged by the ends of a pin 130, extending through the stud 03, andsaid pin bearing against the shoulders formed by the slots 129 preventrotation of the said hub on said stud except in one direction. Normallythe left-hand end of the plate 91(shown in Fig. 2) overbalances theright-hand end, so that the pin 130 normally holds the plate 91 in itshorizontal position. \Vhen, however, the said plate is moved out of itsoper ati ve position, it may be desirable to entirely move thismechanism out of the way, in which case the operator will grasp thehandle 125 and rotate the plate 91 about the stud 93, raising theforward end of said plate and depressing the rear end of the handle, sothat the mechanism will stand in substantially a vertical posit-ion, inwhich event the weighted handle will overbalance the other end andretain this mechanism in this position until it is again moved to thehorizontal position.

Sui tably see u red at its ends to the standards 3 and 5L is theguide-bar 135, on which guidebar slides the cross-head 13G, whichcrosshead is provided on its rear face with a pin 137, which takes intothe cam-groove 13S on the cam-disk 116. 'lhe cross-head 136 has pivotedthereto the latch 139, which latch takes between the collars on the endof the rod 141, which operates the gum-tissuefeeding mechanism, as willnow be described.

lThe pivoted latch li) permits` the ready disengagement of l he said rod141 from the crosshead 13G whenever the gum-tissue feeding mechanism ismoved outward from its operative position, as before described.

0n the plate 01 are provided suitable bearings for a reel 142, uponwhich the strip of gum-tissue is wound. Also secured to said plate 01 isa box 143, provided with the ends 144 and 145 and cover 146, in whichbox the gum-tissue feeding and cutting mechanism is located. Thegum-tissue is led through an opening in the wall ot' said box andbetween guide-plates 148 and140, as shown in Fig. 12, and then betweentheguide-rollers 150, which guide-rollers are suitably mounted iubearings 151 and provided with the rubber or similar friction disks 152,which form the working faves of said rolls. One end of each of theserolls has secured thereto a spur-gear 153, which spur-gears intermesh tocause said rolls to rotate together. has its shaft extended and providedwith a double spiral groove 154 and has its outer end journaled on thepointed end of a screw 155, extending through the end Wall of the box.In the upper portion of the said box, on opposite sides thereof, are therods 15b, which serve as guides for the cross-head 157, said cross-headbeing secured tothe end of the rod 141', above described, by means ofwhich the said cross-head is reciprocated back and forth. Pivotallymounted on this crosshead 157 is the dog 158, said dog having the zvertical arm and the horizontal arm 160, which is adapted to lie on theupper face of the cross-head 157. When the said cross-head moves in thedirection of the arrow, Fig. 11,

The n pper roll 150 TOO IIO

the said dog will have its horizontal arm 160 engage the upper faceofthe cross-head, and consequently will be kept from swinging about itspivotal point. The depending vertical arm 159 then engages one of thespiral grooves 154 of the roller 150, and as said crosshead moves towardthe left the roller will be given a rotary movement, as will be readilyunderstood. When the cross-head, however, moves in the oppositedirection, the dog 158 will simply swing about its pivotal point and thedepending arm will ride idly over the spirals 154 and not give a rotarybackward movement to the feeding-rollers 150, as will be readilyunderstood.

The feeding-rollers 150 and their actuating mechanism are located in thelower portion of the box 143. In the upper portion of said box andsuitably secured to the cross-head 157 are the tissue cutting andfeeding tongs 165, the said tongs comprising the lower member 166 andthe upper member 167. The lower member has its edges turned up, as at168, and the upper member has its edges turned down to form the ears169, which are pivoted, as at 170, to the ears 168. The lower memberalso has its edges at the forward end turned up, as at 171, which edgesare sharpened to form,in eiect,cuttingblades in conjunction with theupper member 167, as clearly shown in Fig. 16. The lower member 166 isconnected by means of the post 172 to the cross-head 157. Mounted onsaid cross-head is the pivoted dog 173, which has the vertical dependingarm 174 and the upper horizontal arm 175, which is adapted to lie on theupper face of said cross-head. Through the rear wall 145 of the boxprojects a set-screw 176 in position to contact with the vertical arm174 of the dog 173 when the said tongs are in their retracted position,and when the said tongs are in their extended position the said verticalarm is adapted to contact with a stud or abutment 177, suitably securedon a bar 178, extendingthrough said box. The arm 174of the dog 173contacts with the upper member of the tongs back of the pivotal pointthereof, so that when said dog is brought to its vertical position, asshown in Fig. 13, by coming in contact with the abutment 177 the rearend of the upper member will be depressed, thereby opening the tongs.The tongs are then moved backward into the box 143, and when they reachthe rear limit of their movement the stop 176 comes in contact with thesaid member 174 and moves the same to the position shown in Fig. 14,thereby permitting said tongs to be closed, which is accomplished bymeans of the cam projection 179 on the upper member of said tongs andlocated in front of thepivotal point thereof moving under the fixedabutment or roller 180, secured in the bar 178. It will thus be seenthat when the ton gs are in theirretracted position-that is, in the box143-they will be closed, thereby cutting off a section of the gum-tissueand grasping the same,

and as the tongs are projected out of the box they retain their grasp onthis gum-tissue and carry the same into the fold of the trousers-bottom,and when they have reached the limit of their projected position the dog173 comes in contact with the abutment 177, which moves said dog to thevertical position to bear against the rear end of the upper member ofthe tongs, thereby opening the latter and permitting the gu m-tissue tobe retained in the fold of the trousers-bottom, said tongs then movingto their retracted position in the box 143 and remaining open until theyreach near the limit of their retracted position,when they are againclosed, as above explained. The operation, therefore, of the rod 141 bymeans of the cross-head 136 operates through the mechanism justdescribed the feeding of the gum-tissues to the shears and tongs, thecutting of the same off, and the carrying of the severed piece into thefold ofthe trousersbottom and depositing of the same therein.

The pawl 95 is provided on its upper end withthe finger 181, whichengages a notch 181'LL in the rod 182, which rod projects into the box143 and is normally retracted by the spring 183. This spring and rod 182are secured to a post on the cross-plate 183, which carries the guide orshield 184, projecting normally into the hem of the trousers-bottom andholds the same open to permit the'placing of the gum-tissue into saidhem by the tongs. Vhen the required amount of gumtissue has been fed tothe hem, the finger 181 is disengaged from the notch 181i, therebypermitting the spring 183 to withdraw the guide 184 from the hem.

To retain the gum-tissue in the fold of the trousers-bottom after it isdeposited therein by the tongs, I provide suitable biting-rollers 185and 186. The roller 185 is mounted in the rocking frame 187, pivoted inthe bracket 189, secured to the standard 3. Said frame is also providedwith a roller 190, which also bears against the inside of thetrousers-leg. This rocking frame is provided with the projecting arm191, having formed .in its end the inclined slot 192, into whichprojects one end of a cross-head 193, secured to the forward end of areciprocating rod 194. This rod 194 extends to the rear and lies in agroove 195, formedv in the guide 135, and lits rear end is 'adapted toengage and be actuated by the cam 197 on the main drive-shaft 5.Projecting down from the reservoir 12 are two brackets 200, which areprovided with suitable guides 201, which take into grooves 202 on thesides of the cup 203. The inner end of this cup is provided with asponge 204, and the outer end has an opening 205 therein, into whichprojects the end of the tube 206, which' is connected through a suitablevalve 207 to the reservoir 12, whereby said sponge is kept moist. Thecup 203 is provided with the pins 208, which take into slots y209 in theinner ends of levers 210, the rear ends of which are pivoted at 211 tothe brackets 200. To the IIO middle portion of one of these levers ispivoted a link 213, the lower end of which is pivoted to the lever 214,which lever is pivoted in the lugs 215, secured to the brackets 209, andwhich lever at its opposite end carries the roller 186, beforementioned, which bears on the outside of the trousers-bottom. A spring217 bears at one end upon the arm 218 of the lever214and atits oppositeend against astud on the bracket 290, the function of said spring beingto hold the roller 186 normally in contact with the roller 185 and atthe same timekeeping the sponge elevated or away from thetrousers-bottom. Projecting out from the arm 218 is an inclinedwedge-face 219,which is adapted to be engaged by a similar-wedge face220 on the cross-head 193, before mentioned, the operation of this partof the mechanism being as follows: As the rod 194 is moved forward bythecam 197 one end of the cross-head 193 engages the inclined slot 192 inthe arm 191, thereby causing a rocking of the frame 187 about itspivotal point and causing a depression of the roller 185. At the sametime the wedge-face 220 on said cross-head bears under the wedge-face219 of the arm 218 and tends to elevate the same, thereby rocking thelever 214 about its pivotal point and elevating the roller 186, soihatthe said rollers 186 and 185 release their bite on thetrousersbottom, and this releasing is timed to take place at the ltimewhen said trousers-bottoni is given one of the intermittentforward-feeding steps. At the same time the inner end of the lever 214is depressed and draws down on the link 213 and through the levers 210moves the sponge-cup downward and presses the sponge against thetrousers-bottom to suitably moisten the same. As soon as the crosshead193 recedes the spring 217 will again elevate the sponge-cup and depressthe roller 186, while the movement of said cross-head in the inclinedslot 192 will again rock the frame 187 to elevate the roller 185 andcause it, together with the roller 186, to bite on the hem of thetrousers-bottom.

The operation of the machine as a whole is as follows: The operatorplaces his foot upon the step 2O of the lever 18 and through the same,by means of the rod 17 and connecting mechanism, elevates the water tankor reservoir 12, frame or housing 8, and the presserroll 9, and throughthe link 76 and bell-crank lever 74 moves the plate 62 andstretchingroller 63 upward on the guide 61 until it is retained by thelatch 86, and through the lever 67 and its connecting mechanism movingthe serrated cam 72 and the spindle 52 to what may be termed their Zeropositions, the rod 59 bearing against the disk 57 and moving the shaft52 to disengage the stud 55 from the pattern-plate 56, so that thecrankarm 54 on said shaft can be easily turned over the pattern-plate56. rlhe latch 81locks the lever 18 i n this position to hold thepresserroll elevated and the shaft 52 out of engagement with thepattern-plate 56. The gumtissue-feeding mechanism and its support 91 arein their outer or inoperative position and preferably7 swung about thestud 93 to stand in a vertical position, whereby they are enti rely outof the way. A trousers-bottom snitably folded is then placed over thespindle 6 and stretching-roll 63 and between the gripping-rollers 185and 186. The main drive-shaft may be operating continuously, as whenitis driven by power, and will not interfere with this placing of thematerial in the machine. As soon as the trousers-bottom is suitablyinserted the operator releases the trip 81, thereby permitting thepresser-roller 9 to descend, and he also releases the latch 85, therebypel'- mitting the stretcher-roller 63 to ride down the inclined guide 61to the full extent permitted by the width of said trousers-bottom, andas said stretcher roller moves down through the bell-crank lever 65,link 70, and crank 71 it sets the cam 72 to the required position andthrough thearm 67 and arm or crank 54 rotating the shaft 52 to thedesired position, when the spring 60 will move said shaft longitudinallyuntil limited by the projection 55 coming against the pattern-plate 56,which movement of the shaft 52 moves the fulcrum-point of the lever 33to the desired position. The pusher 102 is held by the spring 105against the cam 72. The gum-tissue-feeding mechanism is then swung downt0 its horizontal position and moved inward toward the machine, in whichposition it is locked by the latch 95 dropping in the groove 94, and therod 141 engages the cross-head 136, which causes the reeiprocation ofsaid rod and the cross-head 157, thereby cansinga step-by-step feedingof the gum-tissue, cutting off the same, and carrying and depositing ofthe cntoff portion in the fold of the trousers-bottom in the mannerdescribed. Through the cams on the main cam-shaft the lever 33 isoscillated, thereby giving a step-by-step movement to the rotary spindle6, which step-bystep movement is of a length corresponding to theposition to which the fulcrutn 34 of the lever 33 has been moved. Thepawl 108 through the cam and lever mechanism described causes astep-by-step forward movement of the pusher 102, and the reciprocatingrod 194 causes an alternate rocking of the frame 187 and of the lever214, thereby cansing an alternate biting or grasping of the hein of thetrousers between the rollers 185 and 186 and then releasing the same andalso intermittently pressing the sponge against said trousers-bottom.This operation continues until the pusher 102 has been given therequired number of forward steps, depending upon the position of the cam72, when the said pusher engages the lever 101 and raises the pawl 95,which raising of the pawl rst causes the linger 181 thereon to disengagethe notch 181iL in the bar 182, thereby permitting the spring 183 toretract the guide 184 into the box 143 and freeing the same from the hemof the trousers-bottom.- A slight further move- IOO IIO

ment of the latch 95 causes it to become disengaged from the groove 94,thereby permiting the plate-spring 97 to throw the hub 92 and the plateand gum-tissue-feeding mechanism carried thereby outward intoinoperative position, and this disengages the rod 141 from thecross-head 136, the cross-head, however, being in such position that thetongs are in their retracted position. The operator then swings thegum-tissue-feeding mechanism to a vertical position, operates the lever1S, removes the finished trousers, and puts another in its place, andthen proceeds as before.

Vhile I have shown and described my machine as applied to the sealing ofthe hems of trousers-bottoms, still it may readily be applied to thesealing of hems on various other garments or articles, such asskirt-bottoms and the like. The stretcher-roll 63 in that case must beplaced a suitable distance from the spindle 6 to accommodate the skirtor other article. The construction and mode of operation of the machinewould, however, be the same. Such adaptation of, the machine I intend toinclude in the claims as expressed.

What I claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. In a machine for finishing or sealing hems of garments, thecombination with a support for the garment, a presser-roll, astretcher-roll, a lever, and connections between said leverandpresser-roll and stretcherroll for moving the former away from thegarment-support and moving the latter toward the same.

2. In a machine for finishing or sealing hems of garments, thecombination with a support for the garment, of a presser-roll, astretcher-roll, a lever, connections between said lever and presser andstretcher-rolls for moving the presser-roll away from said support andmoving the stretcher-roll toward said support, and a latch for lockingsaid lever to hold the presser-roll away from the support.

3. In a machine for finishing or sealing hems of garments, thecombination with a support for the garment, of a presser-roll, astretcher-roll, a lever, connections between said lever and thepresser-roll for moving the same away from the support, connectionsbetween said lever and the stretcher-roll for raising the latter, and aspring-latch for retaining the latter in its raised position.

4. In a machine for finishing or sealing hems of garments, thecombination with a support for the garment, of a stretcher-roll, meansfor raising the latter, and a springlatch for engaging the same andholding it in its elevated position.

5. In a machine for finishing or sealing hems of garments, thecombination with a support for the garment, of a presser-roll, astretcher-roll, a lever, connections between said lever and presser-rollfor raising the latter, a latch on said lever for holding thepresser-roll in its elevated position, means controlled by said leverfor elevating the stretcher-roll, and a spring-latch for engaging thelatter to hold the same in its elevated position.

6. In a machine for finishing or sealing 'hems of garments, thecombination with the port, a movable fulcrum for said lever, apattern-plate, means connected to the movable fulcrum and bearingagainst the pattern-plate for varying the position of said fulcrum, astretcher-roll, and connections between said stretcher-roll and themeans bearing on the pattern-plate whereby the position of the saidmeans on the said plate is varied.

S. In a machine for finishing or sealing hems of garments, thecombination with the support for the garment, of an oscillatinglever andconnections for imparting an intermittent step-by-step movement to thesupport, a movable fulcrum for said lever, a sliding rod to which thesame is connected, a pattern-plate, a projection on said sliding rodbearing against said pattern-plate, a stretcher-roll and connectionsbetween the same and said sliding rod whereby the position of saidstretcher-roll determines the position of the projection on thepattern-plate.

9. In a machine for finishing orsealing garment-hems, the combinationwith mechanism for feeding adhesive material to the fold of the hem, ofmechanism for pressing said fold, a rotating spindle for supporting thegarmenthem, a spring-band encircling said spindle, means forintermittently causing said band to grip the rotary spindle, and meansfor giving said spring-band an intermittent oscillatory movement.

10. In a machine for inishing or sealing garment-hems, the combinationwith mechanism for feeding adhesive material tothe fold of the hem, ofmechanism for pressing said fold, a rotary spindle for supporting thegarment-hem, a spring-band encircling said spindle, an oscillatory leverto which the ends of said band are attached, and means for causing saidband to grip the spindle when the lever oscillates in one direction andto release the same when the lever oscillates in the opposite direction.

11. In a machine for finishing or sealing garment-hems, the combinationwith mechanism for feeding adhesive material to the fold of the hem, ofmechanism for pressing IOC IIO

said fold, a rotary spindle for supporting the garment-hem, aspring-band encircling said spindle, an oscillatingleverto which theends of said band are attached, a drive-shaft, connections between thedrive-shaft and oscillating lever forgiving the intermittent movement tosaid lever, a cam on said drive-shaft, and means controlled by said camfor causing the spring-band to grip the rotary spindle when theoscillating lever moves in one direction.

l2. In a machine for finishing or sealing hems of garments, thecombination with a rotary spindle for supporting the garment, aspring-wire encircling the same, an oscillating lever to which the endsof said wire are supported, means for giving said lever an intermittentoscillatory movement, a pivoted dog carried by said lever and engagingthe free end of said wire, a drive-shaft, and connections between thesame and said dog to cause it to grip the end of the Wire to cause thesame to rotate the support.

13. In a machine for finishing or sealing hems of garments, thecombination with a rotary spindle for supporting the garment, of aspring-wire encircling the same, a main driveshaft, cams on the same, alever controlled by one of said cams for imparting an oscillatorymovement to said wire, a plunger controlled by another of the cams onsaid shaft, and connections between said plunger and the wire forcausing the latter to grip the rotary spindle when it moves in onedirection.

le. In a machine for finishing or sealing hems of garments,thecombination with a support for the garment, of means for feeding anadhesive substance to the hem of said garment, a carriage on which thesame is mounted, a horizontal stud upon which said carriage is mountedto slide and to oscillate, and

a'latch for holding said carriage in its operative position.

l5. In a machine for finishing or sealing hems of garments, thecombination with a support for the garment, of mechanism for feeding anadhesive tissue to the same, a carriage for said mechanism,ahorizontalstud on which the same is mounted to permit its sliding and oscillatingthereupon, a latch for holding the carriage in its operative position, astretcherroll, and means controlled by the same for releasing saidlatch.

1G. In a machine for finishing or sealing hems of garments, thecombination with a support for the garment, of a holder for adhesivematerial, means for feeding said material to the fold of thegarment-bottom, a support for said adhesive-material holder and feedingmeans, a horizontal stud upon which the same is mounted so as to slideand oscillate thereupon, and a pin on said stud and engaging limitingsegmental slots in said support for the oscillation of said support.

17. In a machine for nishing or sealing the hems of garments, thecombination with a support for the garment, of mechanism for feedingadhesive material to the fold thereof, a support for said feedingmechanism, a stud upon which the said support is mounted, a weightedhandle, and toggle-links between said handle and the support, and alatch for holding said support in its operative position. 1S. In amachine for finishing or sealing hems of garments, mechanism for feedingadhesive material to the fold of the garment comprising feeding-rollers,a spirally-grooved drum connected thereto,a reciprocating crosshead, anda pivoted dog on the same for engaging the spiral groove in said drum.

I9. In a machine for finishing or sealing hems of garments,gum-tissue-feeding mechanism comprising tongs composed of two pivotedmembers, the lower member of which is provided with an upturned flangeprovided with sharp edges and the upper member Working against saidedges whereby the gum-tissue is sheared, and means for opening andclosing said tongs.

20. The mechanism for feeding adhesive substance to the fold of garmentscomprising a reciprocating cross-head, tongs secured thereto, a pivoteddog secured to said crosshead and adapted to engage the upper member ofthe tongs to open the same, fixed stops for actuating said dog at bothends of the movement of the cross-head, and a projection on said tongsengaginga similar fixed projection for closing said tongs.

2l. In a machine for finishing or sealing hems of garments,gum-tissue-feeding mechanism comprising feeding-rollers and tongs, aspirally-grooved drum attached to said rollers, a reciprocatingcross-head to which said tongs are secured, a pivoted dog on saidcrosshead for engaging the spirally-grooved drum, a pivoted dog alsosecured to said cross-head for opening the tongs, and fixed stops forengaging said last-named dog at both ends of the movement of thecross-head.

22. In a machine for finishing or sealing hems of garments,gum-tissue-feeding mechanism comprising feed-rollers, means for givingthe same an intermittent rotary movement, combined shears and tongs,means for closing the same to cutoff the tissue and grasp the same, andmeans for giving said tongs a to-and-fro movement to carry the same intothe fold of the garment.

23. In a machine for finishing or sealing hems of garments,thecombination withasupport for the garment, of means for giving the samean intermittent step-by-step movement, of rollers bearing on oppositesides of the fold, and means for releasing the bite of said rollers onthe fold when the support is fed forward.

2i. In a machine for finishing or sealing hemsof garments,thecombination withasupport for the garment, means for giving the same anintermittent step-by-step movement, rollers bearing on the inside andoutside of the fold, means for releasing the bite of said rollers on thefold,aspongecup and means for IOC sponge-cup, a rocking frame in whichthe former are mounted, a lever for moving the sponge-cup, areciprocating rod and connections between the same and the lever androcking frame for simultaneously pressing the sponge against the garmentand releasing the bite of the rollers on the same.

In testimony whereof I, the said LEOPOLD NEWMAN, have hereunto set myhand.

LEOPOLD NEWMAN.- Witnesses:

ROBERT C. TOTTEN, F. W. WINTER.

